Side Dish takes first tour of imminently opening Casa Bonita
The South Park-immortalized, landmark Lakewood Mexican spot is old and new all at once + more food & drink news
So I drove to Denver this morning for a sneak peek of the soon-to-open Casa Bonita. Yes, the legendary “greatest restaurant in the world” immortalized by South Park. That one, yeah. The one with the divers and sopaipillas.
I’d received an invite last week with the most strict media embargo I’ve yet encountered in my nearly two-decade journalism career. If I squealed, I’d be booted off the island (uninvited, shunned and blacklisted for eternity). And I should note that I’ve actually never been to Casa Bonita prior to now! Before we were allowed in, I went under a secondary sub-embargo until 1 p.m. today. And we had to agree to strict photography terms — meaning no shots except in one allowed area. Hence only two photos of mine I’m sharing here (and provided media images below that).
We received a tour only — no interview opportunities with the big players, so I don’t have any fresh quotes for you. That’s by their design. Presenters said they want the public to experience the space all anew, with a mix of nostalgia and surprise at the new upgrades, all intended to elevate the game. They made numerous references to improved quality. (A dig at the past and promise for the future.) We even got to stroll through the expansive kitchen, which we were told was excavated down 2 feet to literally build an entirely new culinary arena. It’s being led by James Beard Award-nominated chef Dana Rodriguez.
What I learned was guests will enter and be guided toward what used to be lengthy queue lines to an entry point. Instead, now, they’ll be ushered into a newly built area of ticket booths for ordering food (think: how picking up tickets at the Royal Gorge Route Railroad works, except for food). That area’s designed in a Oaxacan style with all touches toward authenticity.
Next comes a bend past a viewing area where, behind glass, an employee makes fresh tortillas for public view. Then comes a long hot line where plates are assembled and picked up at the end (think moving down the line at Chipotle, but longer, with more anticipation). We were told everything has been streamlined for efficiency and cleanliness. They’re expecting up to 4,000 guests a day. (Wow!)
Once food’s obtained, diners will be ushered to wherever they’re fortunate enough to be sat. (It wasn’t made clear to us if any requests were taken, or you just get what’s available.) Some tables are inside the faux mountain, behind the waterfall. Others span around the plaza area with a replica wishing well and the sopaipilla station. Again we were told how much effort went into restoring features for the 1970s feel (as the spot opened in ‘74). And we were told that everything has been brought up to code in terms of ADA compliance, meaning it’s all fully accessible.
We were restricted from any direct quotes by our tour guides, but let’s just say someone said something like “step into another world” but not exactly that (so I don’t get into trouble, ahem). Amongst the chaos of reporters and camera people tripping over one another, I think I also heard the words “puppet plaza” in relation to an area that wasn’t yet ready for the public’s eyes.
And perhaps that’s the best hint we all received on the hugely anticipated and yet still unknown opening date. They gave us nothing, only a directive to sign up for updates on their website. So I don’t suspect the doors will fling open tonight. I wasn’t embargoed from guessing, so I might wager they’ll at least seat friends and family for training purposes in the coming days, and perhaps VIP’s chosen from the email list (as per a note on the limited press release). The website still has a YouTube video up that says “grand reopening May” — which gives them until Wednesday to honor that.
So in the end, I drove up here not for direct interviews, not for samples, not for a definitive launch date. But instead for a rapid tour culminating in a mini performance of cliff divers launching themselves from faux rock platforms into the 14-foot-deep lagoon pool below. The waterfall mist and palpable humidity washed over my face like a cool breeze from the past laced with pent-up nostalgia and the promise of campy good days to come. Splash! Splash-splash! (Again, not a direct quote — don’t sue me.)
But to actually quote Cartman from the Casa Bonita South Park episode, when he’s finally apprehended by authorities after diving off the waterfall and floating in the pool blissfully gazing skyward. They tell him he’s going to juvenile hall for a week and ask: “Was it worth it?”
“Totally.”
If you’re a new reader to Side Dish, thanks for checking it out. I’m a longtime food/drink journalist with a passion for covering the Springs’ culinary scene. Here’s more about me. Click the button below to receive my weekly newsletters. — Cheers, Matthew
Wet dogs
Lakeside Dawgs & Cones is back open for the season (through October’s end) at Prospect Lake in Memorial Park. The waterside refreshment stand inside the YMCA swim pavilion originally opened in the summer of 2021; here’s what I said about it at the time. I stopped by earlier this week for a quick preview and to sit down with owner Brandon DelGrosso, who also owns Switchback Coffee Roasters and Provision Bread & Bakery.
Lakeside’s menu remains largely the same as in prior years, but it has added a new stadium-style nachos bowl and DelGrosso’s mindfully expanded veggie and vegan options with hot dog substitutes. (He’s still working on an ice cream substitute due to some distributor issues.) As soon as Provision ramps up in the coming days, it will start providing buns for the dogs as well. The kiosk also sells Pikes Peak Lemonade, local craft beers ($5) and Lee's Spirits Canned Cocktails ($8), to be enjoyed on the patio that overlooks the water. There's free beach access all summer for swimming and paddle boarding and such. And DelGrosso wants the community to take advantage of affordable events/meeting space on premise.
Much ado about Voodoo
Voodoo Brewing Co. - Colorado Springs grand opens Saturday, May 27.
I’m gonna pass the mic to Side Dish partner Focus on the Beer for this one. Their latest Focal Pint newsletter features a great podcast segment with Voodoo’s local franchisee/owner Micah Maffeo. Click below to listen.
Events watch
• Colorful Colorado opens May 27 as a summer pop-up series in the former space of The Garden. View the menu here.
• Seven’s Gate will host Pikes Peak Pride Charity Pint Night on Tuesday May 30. One dollar from each pint sold between 4-7pm will go to Pride and its programs.
• The always awesome Hillside Summer Concert Series continues Wednesday, May 31 from 5:30-8:30 p.m. with performances by SofaKillers, John Wise and the Tribe, and Roma Ransom. Click the above link for my writeup of one of the evenings last year, to get a sense of the event. The $15 admission includes a house drink and there’s local food vendors on site too. (Age 16 and up; no pets allowed.)
• Taste of Pikes Peak early bird ticket sales end at 11:59 p.m. May 31. The event, put on by the Pikes Peak Chapter of the Colorado Restaurant Association, will take place from 5-9 p.m., July 27 on South Sierra Madre Street (closed-to-traffic) outside of the U.S. Olympic & Paralympic Museum. It will feature tastings from more than 60 local restaurants, breweries and distilleries. I’ll definitely be there — it’s pretty much The Big Food Event of the year — you should join me.
• The French Kitchen is celebrating its sixth anniversary with a huge party from 7:45 a.m. to 3 p.m. on Saturday, June 3. I’ll be on site co-judging a chef competition between five local chefs. And for this day only TFK fans can get a special Queenut (“Imagine a cross between a Queenet and a Donut”). Visit this events page for full details and I will see you there.
Vegan at The Well
Free subscribers may now read the full April 25 review of vegan food offerings at The Well, written by Side Dish contributor J.L. Fields. Additionally in that newsletter, I take a look at a stellar vegan sandwich at newly opened Bellas Bagels.
SO KEWL
I can’t wait to check it out!