Shells, hippos, tallow and Taco Night
La Concha Bakery's big opening; Rohr introduces a new coffee shop on T-gap; Hammond's Deli grand opens in OCC + lots more food & drink news
“Their food makes my heart sparkle.”
Those were the words spoken to me just as I crossed the threshold into La Concha Bakery on its grand opening day. Before I could find my spot in line, I was greeted warmly by Mission Coffee Roasters founder Brett Bixler, who spied me approaching from the shopping center parking lot, home also to NaRai Thai, Marigold Bistro and several other eateries. (Yep, it’s definitely my hat that precedes me, à la my logo.) As the bakery’s coffee purveyor of choice, Bixler was on hand to show support. “You’ll fall in love with this family,” he also says, raving about their products.
I start my visit by sipping samples of Mission’s two fine drip coffees available at La Concha: a dark Nicaraguan and medium Colombian roast. (Latte drinks are made with Mission’s house blend.) The Colombian in particular is well chosen, because it’s the birth country of two of La Concha’s four owners: Adriana Ramirez (lead pastry chef) and Sandra Saavedra (administrator). We also meet lead baker Guillermo Ramirez (who’s busy forming a Rosca de Reyes cake for Epiphany) and cofounder Sebastian Romero (Ramirezs’ son, also the web designer). Then, we proceed to buy $50 worth of goodies to-go, departing the busy space to allow others their chance to shop before most everything runs out, as word of the opening seems to have spread widely.
In the parking lot we dive into our boxes, nibbling off of chocolate and vanilla concha pastries, a croissant, a specialized elotes de chocolate pan dulce (shaped like a corn ear), a Cuban baguette sandwich and loaves of raisin-pecan and sourdough bread. Everything’s roundly excellent and texturally delightful. The baguette crunchy; the breads airy yet toothsome; the conchas soft with a buttery interior crumb almost like sweet challah bread; the elotes coated in a granular cinnamon sugar with a pasty cacao spread inside.
I later chat with Sebastian by phone to glean more backstory, and learn that his stepdad Guillermo (who he calls his father, because he married Sebastian’s mom Adriana when he was little) is a second generation baker who grew up in his father’s bakery in Ensenada, Baja California, Mexico. Guillermo’s brother still runs a trio of bakeries there and Guillermo and Adriana had started one as well shortly before the COVID pandemic disrupted their plans, so they sold it to another family member and moved to Arizona. In some ways, La Concha is a continuation of that earlier dream. Adriana started baking around 15 years ago to help Guillermo out. Sebastian calls them “a good team,” as he focuses on the Mexican and European breads and she handles cakes and sweets at La Concha.
From Arizona, the family moved to Woodland Park a couple years ago and Guillermo and Adriana found work at spots like Joanie’s Deli and The Donut Mill. Then came a cottage baking business which led to them meeting now-partner Sandra Saavedra, who also attends Iglesia Nueva Vida locally with them. With the shared Colombian backgrounds, Sandra and Adriana became close and at some point talk led to opening a bakery together here, “to serve the community,” says Sebiastian, “and show some of our hispanic breads to American people — our mission is to share our culture.”
Resilient roast
Rohr Coffee opened in early December at 1020 E. Jefferson St. in the shopping center off Templeton Gap that also hosts Sasquatch Cookies, Whistle Pig Brewing and Joey’s NY Pizza. The lot also used to be home to a Humble Coffee drive-thru location and Humble Bee Roastery. (Humble still has three other locations in town currently.)
That’s notable because Rohr is co-owned by former Humble personalities Bunny Blea and Josh “Juice” Jewell. After years with that outfit — including a one-time partnership on the roastery via Bunny’s husband Aaron — the two baristas have stepped up to become business owners themselves (along with a third, behind-the-scenes parter, Robin Curley). “It’s a fresh start,” says Bunny when I catch her just before closing one afternoon last week. “It was hard leaving Humble, but we’re thankful to still be able to do what we love doing.”
While I sip on my enjoyable hemp milk latte — not one of their signature drinks, which lean sweeter from syrup flavors — I chat with her about Rohr’s style and focus, beginning with where the name and hippo logo originated. She says Curley suggested it as a symbol of resilience (hence the motto on their website “recharge your resilience”), and that the animals can be aggressive but aren’t natural predators, and they stand up for themselves. I gather she’s vaguely clueing me in on whatever prompted their split from Humble and the emotional difficulty of their decision.
One element they didn’t break from is the use of coffee beans roasted on sustainable Bellwether equipment, which they’re now sourcing direct through the company (whereas Humble Bee used to host a machine). She says they do want to procure their own roaster at some point. Meanwhile, their medium-dark espresso blend mixes Ethiopian and Brazilian beans, while the house drip coffee solely features a washed-process Ethiopian bean, medium roasted. The signature latte drinks are all new creations, though the Blume (with brown sugar, lavender and white espresso) was once a drink-of-the-moment special at Humble way back, she notes. The white espresso Rohr latte, which I later sip a sample of, gets white chocolate and peanut butter syrups for a finish like a Reese’s Peanut Butter Cup interior.
Limited pastries are from a commercial source presently, though there’s a large back kitchen space at the location that’s currently underutilized, should a future cooperation materialize. She tells me they’re open to a sublease (if you know anyone looking…). She also says they’re grateful for the early support from the neighborhood and wider community of folks who knew them from the drive-thru days.
Ropa Vieja with Ranch Foods Direct and Gather
Though Ropa Vieja translates to “old clothes” it’s anything but passé on the plate. It’s best known today as a staple Cuban dish, but its original roots date back to the Iberian Peninsula to Sephardic Jews. Whereas many versions call for the creative use of leftovers, we encourage a fresh start with Callicrate Beef flank steak from Ranch Foods Direct. Chef David Cook’s recipe at Gather Food Studio calls for the typical sofrito ingredients and ample spices (available fresh at Gather) plus the all-important olives and capers additions. In this modern rendition, a pressure cooker is used to tenderize the beef and quick-cook the ingredients together, resulting in a fantastic stew you’ll be drawn to making often — speaking from experience here.
Hammond’s Deli launches at Trails End Taproom
In early December Side Dish presented the “Smoke show,” which is to say the rundown of what to expect from The Chuckwagon 719 folks as they staged the opening of Hammond’s Pastrami & Smoked Delicatessen (and The Seared Steer, soon) at Trails End Taproom. You can click into that if you missed it, for the full backstory,
Anyway, Hammond’s went live on Jan. 7, following a media/friends/family preview the night prior. The team (Jared and Deidre Hammond and Zach and Ciera Romey, plus new staff) was putting the final touches on the space and continuing to dial in their systems, so much of what I sampled was already adjusted between then and this writing. I stayed in touch with the Hammonds as they gave updates such as how they were adding more sauces to some of the sandwiches (listening to customer feedback) and planning to start toasting the marbled rye on the pastrami and pastrami reuben sandwiches. Still, I saw a lot of promise in my first bites of the giant-sized (read: Texas sized) menu items, laced with ample smoke as is The Chuckwagon way.
I’ll let the photos do the talking from here, other than to share one amusing-to-me moment behind-the-scenes as I was photographing Jared and an employee tinkering with the optimal assembly of a smoked turkey and bacon sandwich. Caught up in his chef (er, um, pitmaster) brain, eyes a little wild with creativity (and exhaustion, I’m sure), Jared watched the two loaded halves of bread come together after a garlic and herb beef tallow aioli saucing, and uttered to himself, loud enough for me to hear: “That is a humongous sandwich.”
Sounds like mission accomplished, for now.
Bites & Bits
• On Jan. 1, Slice420 announced it would be expanding into the former Jorge’s Mexican Restaurant spot just around the corner from their longstanding Old Colorado City location. After significant renovations (including those to accommodate those with disabilities, like at their Oro Blanco location) they aim to open around summertime with more items, including pastas and chicken wings.
• Grinder Sandwich Co. reopened at its new location at 6050 N. Carefree Circle on Jan. 6. Last May, at 656 Peterson Road, they were put out of business by a fire at a neighboring storefront.
• Security-Widefield’s MoGlo Espresso has had a tough run lately and could use some community support when it gets back up and running next week (tentatively). There’s been an ongoing electrical issue that’s requiring their drive-thru be dug up. “This has been the most challenging time I have had in 13 years of business,” owner DeeDee Reinstein wrote on a recent Facebook post.
• On the first Taco Tuesday of the year, Illegal Pete’s released its first new menu item in 15 years: a plant-based ground beef alternative “affectionately named Taco Night” according to a press release. It also notes how the search for the best beef substitute — “that would look, smell and taste just like taco meat” — took owner Pete Turner six years to complete. He ended up choosing to work with Plantly, who utilizes “all-natural North American peas and 20 percent upcycled mushrooms” and refrains from the “top nine allergens.” Turner says he likes how it’s not filled with chemicals or isn’t overly processed, and he finds is approachable for omnivores too.
• The Broadmoor’s Colorado Appreciation menus are underway and available through Feb. 28 (excluding Valentine’s week). Special prix fixe menus are: $49 (lunch and dinner) at the Golden Bee, $59 (dinner only) at Ristorante Del Lago and $69 (dinner only) at La Taverne. I haven’t yet dined this year’s selections, but here was my experience at each spot in 2024.
• Founder and designer of Bar Thirty Three Joel McVay has stepped away from the business and left it in the care of its existing investors and partners. Speaking with Side Dish, McVay cites a “difference in vision for Bar Thirty Three moving forward” as his impetus for departing. He says he’s going back into the finance world and moving into the mergers and acquisitions space, “which is something I’ve always wanted to do.” McVay had spent close to three years personally building out the subterranean space (near the Mining Exchange Hotel), and says “I did exactly what I set out to do, and accomplished it. I wanted the Springs to have a design-forward space with amazing cocktails… I love this industry and the people in it, and hope everyone does well. It’s the place where everyone comes together, and that’s one of most beautiful things you can do, and why we did it in a beautiful space… but I felt it was best for me to close the book on this chapter and move onto some larger business.” (Side note: as of this writing the bar’s website is down, and social media pages have most recently been updated just before the new year. No menus are posted so I’m not sure what current food and drink menus are in place. I’ll aim to drop in sometime soon for an update.)
• Snooze introduced protein pancakes this week, packing 32 grams into a plate of buttermilk pancakes fortified with Bob’s Red Mill hemp protein powder — that’s also with a topping of bananas, strawberries and blueberries, plus peanut butter-maple syrup for pouring.
• A Paris Baguette location just opened at 1824 Democracy Point off Interquest Parkway. As you can read on the chain’s “about” page, the first location opened in 2005 but they aim to have 1,000 locations by 2030. There are currently two other Colorado locations: one in Parker and one in Aurora. The expansive menu spans everything from cakes and sweet pastries to cookies, muffins, donuts and savory sandwiches, plus coffee drinks.
• Last week’s Bites & Bits section included a tidbit about Till’s return to its original space at 9633 Prominent Point. In a new press release this week, Altitude Hospitality Group announced the hiring of a “Michelin-level chef,” Joseph Bonavita Jr. According to the release, his resume includes work at starred spots like Chicago’s Alinea and New York’s Le Bernardin. He’s most recently coming from a contract with a hospitality group out of Fort Lauderdale, Fla.
Side Dish Dozen happenings
Blue Star Group: Join us at Ivywild School for Beats Eats and Sneaks, 2-8 p.m., Jan. 11. Free entry. Discover incredible food and cutting-edge sneaker and vintage showcases with 20-plus vendors. Also, book now for our Jan. 27 Supper Club at Stellina Pizza Cafe. And scroll below to the events section for details on our Sip With Schnip dine-around at Ivywild School on Jan. 23.
Four by Brother Luck: Our new winter menu just launched! Limited seats remain for our Jan. 23 Top Chef Dinner with Kaleena Bliss. Knife Fight at Eleven18 is at 8 p.m., Jan. 9. Watch BC’s BBQ take on Gasoline Alley and enjoy Eleven18’s full food and drink menu while you spectate.
Red Gravy: New items joining our menu: Gnocco Frito (Italian beignets with prosciutto); a Red Gravy Sub (Mortadella, Genoa salami, Fontina and veggies); Beef Milanese (lemon-garlic-olive oil sauce); and Rigatoni Alessandro (smoked salmon, sun-dried tomato, capers and olives in lemon cream sauce).
Bristol Brewing Company: Our malty-sweet London Brown Ale goes on tap Friday Jan. 10! Come try this traditional British precursor to the beloved brown ale style.
Rasta Pasta: Happy hour daily from 3-5 p.m. with $3 Red Stripes, $4 rum punch and $5 munchies. Wine Wednesdays feature two-for-one house wines.
Goat Patch Brewing: CC Hockey Night in the Taproom, 6 p.m. Jan. 10 and 11. Second Saturday Firkin: Oak Barrel Apple Brandy Barleywine, Jan. 11, taps at 2 p.m., $5 pints. Trivia, 6:30 p.m., Jan. 15.
Allusion Speakeasy: One item on the Harry Potter theme menu currently underway: Hagrid Sliders on butter-toasted tater tot “buns.” Mini smash patties, smoked cheddar, house burger sauce, lettuce, tomato, onion and house-cut shoestring fries.
Edelweiss: Don’t forget our half-off bottles of wine every Monday. Happy hour in our Ratskeller, 4:30-6:30 p.m. Tuesdays-Saturdays.
Kangaroo Coffee: Join us Sundays from 10 a.m. to noon for Sunday Morning Stories with The Story Lounge at our Hillside Coffee House. Open mic; all are welcome! Kangaroo coffees on DoorDash launch in Trinidad Jan. 10 and the Springs Jan. 13.
T-Byrd’s Tacos & Tequila: Now offering catering; book online. Our new $11.99 lunch special gets you chips & salsa, two tacos, rice, beans and a fountain drink; 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. daily. $6 more for a margarita or swirl. Taco Tuesdays feature $3.50 tacos all day.
Ascent Beverage: We’re proud to be the liquor sponsor for Cocktails After Dusk’s Fight Night Title-Belt Championship on Jan. 13. All the winning competitors from prior rounds will compete in a Battle Royale at 6 p.m.
The Carter Payne: Join us for Pasta Fellowship: A community dinner on Jan. 11; $30. Next up: Cold Weather Comfort: A Coursed Dinner on Jan. 17; $55.
Odyssey Gastropub: We have six mocktails and three Athletic Brewing nonalcoholic beers available for Dry January.
Upcoming events
Jan 14: Chef Zaya’s Omakase at Sushi Row. 6:30 p.m.; $180.
Jan. 16: Vegan Beer Dinner at Cerberus Brewing Co. Four brew-paired courses spotlight flavors from the Middle East, Pan-Asia, Americas and Mediterranean. $90.
Jan. 23: Sip With Schnip dine-around at Ivywild School with the Blue Star Group brands. 5-9 p.m. Start in The Library between 5-6 p.m. for free tastes (including a sneak peek from The Blue Star, reopening later this year, and a take-home treat from Stellina Pizza Cafe). Paid subscribers enjoy a free sparkling wine. Everyone grab a dine-around card for happy hour pricing all night at Principal’s Office, $2 off a sandwich or burger at Ivywild Kitchen, a free empanada at Decent Pizza Co. and a $2 cookie at Gold Star Bakery.
Jan. 23: Manitou Brewing’s first beer pairing dinner “featuring game meats & local flora that is foragable in the mountains surrounding our town.” Five courses; $85.
Jan. 24: Food + Function: Farm to Fork at Taste at the Fine Arts Center. Four courses featuring local producers, served on Bemis School of Art pottery that you keep.
Jan. 25: The Great Fruitcake Toss in Manitou Springs.
Parting shot
I don’t have anything profound to share this week, but here’s an amusingly meta, eight-second video I shot for an Instagram post where I’m repping my Side Dish t-shirt at the Hammond’s Deli media preview. So you see my face twice as I bite into an oversized smoked turkey and bacon sandwich. Like I said, nothing profound.