Saving what swims
Jax Fish House's culinary director advocates for sustainable seafood systems; I cover 4/20 at Cheba Hut; three new spots opening soon + more food & drink news and events
Six questions with Sheila Lucero, Culinary Director for Big Red F Restaurant Group
*Big Red F is the parent company of Jax Fish House & Oyster Bar, a 2025 Side Dish Dozen sponsor.
Schniper: Tell us about your work with James Beard Smart Catch and the Monterrey Bay Aquarium Seafood Watch. I understand Jax restaurants were the first in Colorado to be certified by the MBASW. How do those agencies differ in their functions advocating for seafood sustainability?
Sheila Lucero: Monterey Bay aquariums, Seafood Watch was my guiding light early on in my career. They had just launched a restaurant partnership program. I used them quite a bit to help me make the right choices… after a year of working with them, a mentor to me still today, Sheila Bowman, invited me to participate in this program called the Blue Ribbon Task Force. It was basically a chef’s board — about 50 of us, representing all parts of the U.S., and some of Canada and Mexico. The great part about that was the networking. They would bring us in, in groups of 15, and it was a summit of us talking, asking a lot of questions, and them sharing how Monterey Bay assess fisheries — the science behind it and everything that goes into their rating system. And then teaching us how to advocate for what we're doing. To spread the word and educate. There were a couple opportunities where there was some legislation happening on Capitol Hill in Washington, and they asked a few of us to go, because it would have really affected our fisheries negatively. So we spoke to that, and what that means to us as people that own businesses, who do our best to make these decisions mindfully. That was a great opportunity to see our voices in action.
The James Beard Foundation started Smart Catch in 2015. We were early adopters. It was a similar advocacy effort aimed at having chefs be smarter about what we're purchasing. There are different tiers and commitment levels… they use the same kind of third-party auditing system to take a look at what, where and how we're purchasing. So there's a little bit of homework behind the scenes to get that information to them. They’ve since opened up some other arms of advocacy.
Monterey Bay has kind of changed their programming as well, coming out of the last five years. Jax is about to be part of a pilot program where we're going to try to represent on our menu with little logos and icons that indicate things Monterey Bay would consider green. It’s like a stoplight system. Green is very sustainable, a best choice, and then yellow is a good alternative still. You're doing good, but you could be better. Anything red is an avoid. They had different percentages early on to qualify as a restaurant partner. Now they’re just focusing on best choice items. That's a hard thing to do, but they want to start small. Let's boost these items up and represent them on your menus.
How did you and Jax get involved and why? I gather it’s more than a company ethos for marketing purposes, that you are all deeply committed. What in your life shaped you into the people who give a shit vs. those that can look the other way for profit?
I started working at Jax when it was just beginning. [It opened its first location in 1994 on Pearl Street in Boulder.] A lot of this inspiration came from [founder] Dave [Query]. Just overall mindfulness of what we're doing when we are partnering with vendors and where we're purchasing our food from. Having a story behind all that was always a big pillar to me. I'm from Colorado. I didn't eat a lot of seafood growing up, so I had no idea where to start. This was all part of the reason I started working at Jax [after graduating from Denver’s Art Institute of Colorado culinary school]: I didn't know anything about seafood. I needed resources. That's when I started using Monterey Bay and started reaching out and asking questions to people who would actually pick up the phone. That's how I found out about the restaurant partnership, and kept growing with them… Especially when I went to D.C., people were really interested to hear that people that live inland give a shit about the coasts, about our fisheries. And that there's actually a lot of people that care where their food comes from. A lot of our guests do. That was a real driver for me.
How can we convert others into caring? Can restaurants who aren’t geared specifically towards seafood make a difference? And can they afford the more sustainable options, especially with the current economic climate? How much more do they have to pay and pass along to consumers to make the better choice?
Now more than ever, the accessibility to products that are cost effective and well managed and fished properly is increasing. I don't ever want to get super preachy with chefs that I don't really know. But we do a lot of events, and just the camaraderie in the Front Range, meeting chefs and talking about what we do — that’s sometimes a nice way to just discuss, ‘hey, who are you using a vendor. What do you look for when you're buying seafood?’ It’s those kinds of conversations, making it a little bit more organic, that feels better to me. Where I've been really successful is with my tenure at Jax and all the chefs that have worked within our group for years. It's a major focus of what we do every day. How we order, how we plan our menus, how we collaborate, and how we talk about the future of seafood. What's in season, and where are we getting this from and who do we want to support and partner with? So any chef that has been a part of Jax and written menus for us has that knowledge, and those connections too.
As for affordability, it’s definitely going to be a barrier. Costs are rising every day. There's always something else going on that we're just trying to do our best to not pass the cost on. Generally speaking, there's a lot of options. There's a lot of good and healthier choices to make if you do a little digging. I know it's hard with time, and managing that, but I think it pays off in the end. And there is a way to talk to your guests about that. Putting it on your menu — not necessarily soapboxing a ton — but let them know what you're doing. There's a lot of work that goes behind menu development. Let them know that you did your homework and that you're trying to bring the best to them. And we live in markets where I think people care about where their food is coming from. So letting them know that you're doing your best to give them the best. I think that there's a little wiggle room to be able to charge what you need to charge. But with rising costs and everything I understand there's also a ceiling.
It’s a little bit more challenging for the chefs to have to juggle three to four different vendors. Shamrock is our broadliner. Sometimes people don't associate the broadliners with having sustainable options, or maybe it's a little bit more challenging to get. But having those discussions with your vendor, first and foremost — they want to work for you. They want to give you the things you're looking for. Start asking questions. Like, can I get this on the regular? How long is it available? Can you give me some sustainability information? It all begins there. For me, we have What Chefs Want; they’re fairly new to the market, they're working hard to earn business. They're up and down the Front Range. We've been working with Santa Monica Seafood for almost a year now, but I was putting a lot of pressure on them. I'm like, “look, we're not going to give you our business until you can drive down to the Springs.” And so now they're figuring out getting trucks down there twice a week. So we're trying to support people who are trying to support us.
Has the game changed since the current administration took office and agencies like the EPA are getting gutted, and environmental priorities are being tossed out in favor of more oil/gas drilling and coal mining (if the) White House gets its way?
It’s a problem. It’s going to take years for us to back up on all these things getting defunded. A lot of things were heading in the right direction, with a lot of science going into it. A lot of just great minds and great potential. And now that is gone.
I just got back from a three-day conference in North Carolina. I was at the James Beard Chef Summit. And all of this was on advocacy work we discussed. There was a whole hour on tariffs and climate change and all the things that are affecting us. Not to overwhelm, but we need to find a voice and also understand that you can be concerned about all the things, and that's really stressful. But to really try to find the things that are impactful to your business and important to you, and dig in deep and be that squeaky wheel, so to speak. The game is changing every day. With seafood especially. So right now we’re on the phone every day, reading the latest updates, talking to vendors. Talking to people a little bit closer to this stuff than I am physically and just hearing what they're seeing. And trying to figure out what our contingency plans are, to make adjustments on-the-fly with our menus if we need to.
With climate change, that's a whole other depressing thing. A lot of people don't know where to start. The Summit was purposefully in Asheville, North Carolina, which as we all know, six months ago, was pretty much wiped out by Hurricane Helene. So there was a lot of discussion about severe weather and the frequency of it. And how it's not, ‘if it hits us, but when.’ There were 200-plus chefs in this room, and everybody could speak to it. We just need to prepare for it. What does that mean?
There was quite a bit of discussion too about supporting farmers during these disasters, and the food accessibility to all these things that have been cut. We talked about feeding kids and all the programs that are being defunded right now. How do we help that? How do we get local farms, small farms, to be able to sell their food to schools? And how do we feed these kids?
And how do we change the insurance programs for disasters? Like when you have to close your restaurant for 54 days because you don't have potable water, but your insurance won't cover that. So they were like, ‘read your fine print.’ Know what you're covered on. Depending on how a storm is declared, that could mean a lot for how you're covered. A lot of people from North Carolina were there, sharing lessons learned. They said it's going to happen, whether it's a fire, a flood or severe wind or whatever, we're all subject to something. It’s just a matter of time. That was pretty eye opening.
As I listen to you talk, I’m thinking a lot of restaurants are just trying to get the doors open every day, and run their staff and inventory, and do the basic things. For you to be thinking bigger picture about, ‘how do we connect farms to schools?’ —that’s extracurricular community volunteerism. Is that built into your purview at Jax? Or is that someone else on the team, or the company culture as a whole? Like, we're always going to plug in. If we see something, we'll try to do it. Not necessarily inside of your 40 hours, so to speak?
That is a huge Dave and Dana [Query, his wife and business partner] thing. That's always been a huge part of Big Red F. I've been fortunate enough to work with them long enough to understand the importance of giving. Of always being the first to show up. That's just what restaurants do. That's what chefs do. So that's always been part of our DNA. I'm really proud of that. Yeah, it's all extracurricular, extra hours, but it's all something that we love to do, and we show up for it.
Back to your seafood advocacy: Are there success stories? Have we made significant strides, or any progress in the 25 years since MBASW launched?
There's been great success stories of fisheries that have come back from the brink. Like the rockfish fishery in California was almost gone. It was up to the fishers; they decided themselves they were going to bring this fishery back. And that meant just being more diligent… it was on them to decide that they were going to put in the work and invest in their fisheries. So what that meant was all hands in together with catch audits and having a third party on their boat to watch them as far as managing that fishery and what they were catching and what was getting thrown back. And they brought that fishery back.
One of the big things from a Monterey Bay conference that I was at recently was bluefin tuna. Bluefin tuna, for as long as I can remember, was an avoid, was in the red. And because of the work of the aquarium and pushing to bring this species back to a safer place, it's now in the yellow. So now we are talking to our vendors about that. Because we still have to be mindful of where they're coming from. It hasn't opened it up completely. And that's what was a little scary for Monterey Bay to make that assessment. Because they were worried that if they put Bluefin at yellow, does that mean people are going to jump at it, and we're going to just go right back to where we were? So there's been a lot of thoughtfulness about ‘how do we manage it from here?’
And it's not just domestic fisheries. Worldwide, Monterey Bay does a lot of work with places like shrimp farms in Vietnam, for example. They help them build a better chain, and improve day-to-day life. It’s deeper than saying ‘hey, your score is red because you're polluting the water’ — and then they leave. Instead, they’ll step in and say ‘hey, this is what we've seen be successful in other other areas in the world. Places have implemented these things at a low cost and it's actually brought more money to the economy and provided more work for local communities.’
So there's a lot of good, actionable things going on.
*Join us for our April 27: Sip With Schnip Brunch Bash at Jax Fish House & Oyster Bar. 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. Join us for BOGO brunch or lunch entrées and enjoy items from the raw bar, plus specialty cocktails and good company.
I went to Cheba Hut for 4/20 (and because I hadn’t been)
Some chef friends told me Cheba Hut is one of their preferred late night go-to’s, and I confess I hadn’t been until now (as I’m spending most of my focus on local, independents). The toasted sub chain, started in Tempe, Arizona, launched in 1998 and now counts more than 75 locations. I’m told our locals are part of a Colorado/Nevada franchise that alone operates more than 25 spots. Three are in Colorado Springs, including the five-year-old Chestnut Street spot just off I-25 at Fillmore Avenue. That’s where I duck in on 4/19 to catch a 4/20 preview.
I’m toured around by assistant GM Ocean Gibson, who tells me this shop’s one of their busiest in the system, and that they truly pride themselves on customer service. She graciously gives me the rookie rundown, starting at the (full) bar (open ‘til midnight weekdays, 2 a.m. weekends), where bartenders hold a laminated secret menu — not that anything with a Reddit thread and wide knowledge of its existence is secret, but people play along — which features more than 50 off-menu sandwich combinations. That’s in addition to the nearly 30 on-menu, named for marijuana strains and such (like White Widow, Dank and AK-47).
I admire the wall mural, and she produces a coffee table book: “25 Years of Cheba Hut Murals.” I turn to this location’s page, spotlighting artist Josh Finley. On another page I recognize the work of Mike Fudge (who did Urban Animal’s awesome murals).
To the menu, I inquire about vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free options for anyone who would ask, and she notes existing veggie sandwiches on the menu, saying others are easily customizable (hence the tons of secret sandwiches) to be vegan. As for gluten-free, surprisingly they don’t carry a bread alternative to make sandwiches, so any sandwich can be turned into a salad instead (minus croutons). Otherwise, all breads (white, wheat and garlic) are baked in Boulder. The only other local things I spy are beers, including Goat Patch Hazy IPA on tap, which I order.
For the 4/20 party the following day, she’s booked a DJ and planned a joint-rolling contest (subbing oregano for weed) and Sticky Icky (12-inch PB&J sandwich) eating competition. I can see that despite the corporate nature of it all, Cheba Hut’s culture seems cool and they’re given a little creative leeway to connect with their respective communities around events like these. In a way, I’m reminded of Illegal Pete’s (a much smaller, Colorado regional franchise I reported on here), but a sandwich shop version. Walking into the place, I figured it had to be somewhat laid back, given they chose to market around weed from top to bottom. (Amusingly, an earlier press release carefully stated: “No, there is no actual THC in these tasty, toasted subs – just plenty of flavor.”)
I decide to order three different Nugs (4-inch subs so I can try a few; foot-longs are called Blunts) on three different breads. Northern Lights, from the secret menu, effectively combines the main menu’s G-13 and Kali Mist, mashing up roast beef, turkey, bacon, Pepper Jack, jalapeños and chipotle mayo. I like the spicy elements, especially the jalapeño coins, and the bacon in particular makes it a rich treat. The wheat bread feels substantial, while on my other sandwiches the white bread nails a classic baguette and the garlic bread continues the crunchy crust/chewy core pleasantries with welcome flavor from everyone’s favorite adjunct.
Next up, the easily enjoyable Acapulco Gold, with added pepperoncini (as advised by a chef friend), spotlights juicy grilled chicken breast bits bathed in a tangy-sweet barbecue sauce, with melted Swiss and fixings, including the widely used Shake & House dressing — a vinaigrette with added herbs and spices, like oregano and Parmesan — which exudes Italian hoagie essence. And finally the Power Plant, a veggie concoction I customize with jalapeño-cilantro hummus (not as potent in the final flavor as I was envisioning), otherwise coming with guacamole, feta, cucumber, black olives, cucumber, tomato, onion, bell peppers and pickles (plus the aforementioned dressing). It’s a kitchen-sink bite that leaves you feeling like you got your daily recommended vegetable dose, even if all the flavors are so overlapped and layered it tastes a bit chaotic. (Not a bad high, but no single-strain nuance, let’s say.)
Bites & Bits
• Nana’s Dim Sum & Dumplings, a regional chain with four existing Colorado locations, has three more on the way, including one at set for 1895 Democracy Point. Denver’s Westword reported on the brand’s rapid growth last month, noting it only debuted in LoHI in fall, 2023, adding Boulder and Aurora locations in 2024. Guests can observe dumplings being made by hand on site. The owners, as the article explains, are eight close friends, some of who immigrated from China as young adults; house recipes are passed down from relatives. The menu is described as a mix of “approachable” dishes (including “Instagram-worthy dumplings in colorful green and purple wrappers”) and “traditional dishes like honey chicken feet, salt-baked chicken and baked eel.” Westword called Nana’s “one of the best recent additions” to Denver’s dumpling scene.
• The former Steel Pan PNP and Iron Bird Brewing Co. space at 402 S. Nevada Ave. will soon return to life, this time hosting a JINYA Ramen Bar location. On their corporate website, the Tokyo-founded, Los Angeles-based, 25-year-old brand says “JINYA is known for its slow-cooked approach to ramen, made from broths simmered for 20 hours in-house.” Interestingly, or at least I’m somehow amused by this, but JINYA will operate across the street from White Pie Pizzeria, who’s part of the local restaurant group that opened Night Ramen just blocks away at 324 E. Pikes Peak Ave. (Which is I guess to say in theory Night Ramen could have taken this spot instead and kept sister outfits super close, or at least that it’s funny another ramen brand has come to the downtown market to compete with them across from another of their spots.)
• The Colorado Springs Hops n Drops location at 5820 Stetson Hills Blvd. announced last week that it was ceasing operations at 10 p.m., April 24. No details were provided as to why. The Washington-based chain launched in 2009, and still operates more than 20 locations, mainly in the Pacific Northwest.
• Oro Restaurant at The Mining Exchange Hotel begins service on April 26. Golden Hour lounge at the hotel currently has a menu preview available.
• Leaning Tree Micro-Farm has begun setting up outside of Bread & Butter Neighborhood Market from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m., Wednesdays. Related: Side Dish just took a tour with B&B last week to spotlight great local food and drink products. And with Tap&Table, we made a two-part podcast episode on Leaning Tree, where we visited their Fowler farm last year and tasted through products with them — many of the same products you can now purchase outside of B&B.
• Thank you to James Proby from The Men’s Xchange for honoring me and giving Side Dish a shout-out in his #ThankfulThursdays series, where he spotlights people in the community. (The Men’s Xchange is location in the same shopping center as Marigold Cafe & Bakery, Zaika Indian Cuisine, AI Sushi & Grill and Por Favor Tacos & Tragos, which gives you four reasons to visit the stylish social-impact business and say hi to James when you’re in the area.)
Side Dish Dozen happenings
Jax Fish House & Oyster Bar: Reserve early for Mother’s Day Brunch, 10 a.m. to 2 p.m., May 11. Brunch cocktails include cucumber-infused bloody marys, mimosas and our fantastic espresso martini. Featured bites include an Oscar Omelette and smoked salmon melt.
Kangaroo Coffee: KC community engagement abounds. We're really excited with our new neighborhood partnership with the Council of Neighborhoods and Organizations (CONO). Kanga Brew fueling community conversations! Warming (and soon cooling) Switchbacks Soccer fans. And delivering food and beverages to DoorDash, and now Uber Eats, peeps!
Goat Patch Brewing: Meadowgrass Pre-Fest Party, 3-5 p.m., April 26. Mother’s Day Market, noon-5 p.m., May 4. At Pikes Peak Brewing catch Amazon Prime comedian Zane Lamprey, 8-9:30 p.m., April 29. Grazing Goat Kitchen is now open 11 a.m. daily at our Northgate location.
Wobbly Olive: Every weekday HH at both locations, 4-6 p.m., all cocktails and beers are 50% off, plus $5 house wines. We just launched a new spring food menu! Allusion Speakeasy: Harry Potter comes down at both locations April 26. The new Shrek theme starts soon after in May; make reservations early.
Nacho Matrix: Catch daily Happy Hours, 3-6 p.m., Monday-Friday; 11 a.m. to 4 p.m., Saturday-Sunday. Odyssey Gastropub: Come for Thirsty Thursdays, with we pick em' specials: $4 beers, $5 shots, $7 cocktails. Also Service Industry Tuesdays, with happy hour pricing all day.
Edelweiss: Our award-winning patio is open for lunch when it’s above 65 degrees. Catch our happy hours in the Ratskeller, 4:30-6:30 p.m., Tuesdays-Saturdays. We offer traditional live music Thursdays-Sundays, 5:30 p.m.-8:30 p.m.
Blue Star Group: Join us from 5-7 p.m., May 1 at Ivywild School for the D.U.B. Network Social, a gathering designed for movers, makers and creatives. Connect with local professionals and entrepreneurs while enjoying great drinks, delicious bites and meaningful conversations. Free headshots, giveaways, Kandi making. Reserve free.
Upcoming events
April 26: 18th Annual Spring Wine Extravaganza at The Winery at Holy Cross Abbey. 1-4 p.m. $45.
*April 27: Sip With Schnip Brunch Bash at Jax Fish House & Oyster Bar. 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. Join us for BOGO brunch or lunch entrées and enjoy items from the raw bar, plus specialty cocktails and good company.
April 28: Pride Game Night Social at Cocktails After Dusk. 7-10 p.m.
April 29: Passport to Tuscany Wine Dinner at Pizzeria Rustica. Five courses, $89, benefitting CASA.
May 3: Isang Hapag, Isang Pamilya (One Table, One Family) dinner with Baon Supper Club at The Kamayan Hideaway by Lumpia Lheas. As part of Mile High Asian Food Week. Seatings at 5:30 and 8 p.m.; five courses, $100.
May 4: Pints and Poses at Urban Animal Beer Co. (Star Ranch Road location). First and third Sundays monthly at 10:45 a.m.; an hour of yoga + a pint of beer. $18.
May 5: Cinco de Mayo deals all over town. Too many to list. Search socials and disfruta por mi!
May 18: Monthly Paella on the Patio nights at TAPAteria kick off.
*Early notice: June 1: 719 Battle of the Food Trucks. July 17: 2025 Taste of Pikes Peak.
Parting shot(s)
Hey, remember last December when I published my Schnip's Trips: Portugal — 20 fun food and drink adventures during my working vacation abroad, from the Azores islands to the Iberian Peninsula?
And remember how a bunch of lovely people helped me out by providing awesome guest content? Like a timely update on what’s hip and happening in Denver’s culinary scene; a studious analysis of wings in the Springs; nostalgic NOLA food; an ode to gas station pizza; a mocktail roundup; and tips for dining out with a toddler. (Yeah, you remember.😉)
Well, thanks to the impending foreign matrimonial ceremony of a childhood best friend of mine (I could have just said “destination wedding abroad” — ahem), I will be on the road afar again next month. And yes, you know I’ll be eating, drinking, documenting and turning the overseas voyage into content for Side Dish. (Said wedlock weekend is but a small portion of the expansive itinerary that sidedishsidekick is building for us. Yes, I’m super grateful to have an expert researcher/planner at the table with me.)
Which brings me to the reason I’m writing this here: the ask.
If you’re one of my loyal weekly readers (I see and love each and every one of you!) — and not one of the naughty naughties who reads often but still won’t click that damn blue “subscribe” button (I see you too, and kinda still love you)… And you would like to see your name prestigiously in print here… And you don’t fear a short-ish deadline…
If that’s you. And you have an idea for something short you’d like to write, I’d love to hear from you. Pitch me. It could be a small blurb about one of your favorite eateries that I haven’t written about recently or back since I was at the Indy — which relatedly was sold again this week and Corey Hutchins has excellent coverage on how it all went down, here.
You could write something goofy (like gas station pizza prose), or something personal at home, or an opinion piece. Anything that touches food and drink in any way, I’m open to hearing about. And if right now isn’t the best time for you, but you’d like to potentially submit something later, file this as food for thought. I’m always open to guest content throughout the year (and can discuss potential budget to fund it, if/when necessary).
Oh, and where am I going, you ask?
Stay tuned, you’ll find out soon enough. 😉