Makerspace
Third Wave Chocolate Co. introduces Springs to bean to bar model, will launch an evening dessert bar at Provision soon; (Southside) Johnny Nolan's post-industry ponderances + more food & drink news
A little over a year ago, I visited the place which lays claim to the world’s largest selection of single-origin chocolate bars. It’s called Nuance Chocolate, and happens to be located in Fort Collins — perhaps you’ve been, too. Nuance gave me my first glance at still-somewhat-rare bean to bar chocolate models, which revolve around social responsibility and are a fair comparison to craft coffee endeavors which seek to pay fair wages and support a more sustainable production industry overall. Higher prices for you (representing the true cost) reflect all that, but these are deeply enjoyable, truly craft products.
So I was thrilled to learn that the Springs now has its own bean to bar business, named Third Wave Chocolate Co., started by chocolate maker Joel Bogdanoff. Though he was selling goods last year at the Old Colorado City Farmers Market (and plans to again this upcoming season), Bogdanoff has gained new exposure lately thanks to his retail display inside Provision Bread, which also acts as his production site.
And he’s about to ramp up to a whole new level sometime in April (tentatively) with the launch of Third Wave’s own nighttime dessert bar at the space. He tells Side Dish he’s planning on offering brownie, S’mores and hot chocolate flights, initially launching with just weekend hours (something like 4-9 p.m.), but aiming to open five days a week eventually. He’s underway with procuring larger equipment, including a commercial-grade continuous chocolate tempering machine, which will allow him to scale-up from ordering 20 pounds of raw cacao beans a week to 200 pounds.
For an upcoming segment on our Tap&Table podcast, Ryan Hannigan and I recorded a chocolate tasting at Provision with Third Wave and fellow craft maker at the spot Cinchona Coffee. Why? Because part two of this news is that Cinchona has extended its popup at the bakery for another six months (beyond the initially planned Feb. 16 cutoff). And Cinchona’s owner Shepherd Combs is now incorporating Third Wave’s chocolates into special weekly hot chocolates and mochas as part of a new collaboration between the brands. The share a similar ethos in terms of their reverence for both coffee and chocolate in its purest and most expressive forms. I can tell you you’ll be hard-pressed to find a bougier and more exquisitely created chocolate-coffee pairing around. Here’s more details about it all:
• Bogdanoff’s background: He moved here five years ago from Phoenix with his wife for her nursing work. “She’s been extremely supportive of this venture,” he says. Prior to this, he was in the audio-visual field, working events at The Broadmoor. He’s a coffee aficionado too, plucking Third Wave’s name from coffee culture’s third wave movement. (Which is the great leap forward from the brew’s earliest commercial incarnation in dreck form, to the Starbucks and Peet’s era, to the sophisticated craft roasteries of today, in case you’re still behind on that terminology).
• The focus: “It’s to spotlight individual beans,” he says, noting he buys single-origin, fair trade and organic via a purveyor in Denver. “As with coffee, chocolates don’t have a single note. It depends on how and where they’re grown.” We discuss terroir and the culinary rule-of-thumb that “what grows together goes together.” As with a coffee cupping, we talk about aromas and flavor perceptions, ranging from citrusy, bright and fruity notes to nutty, earthy, funky, etc. He and Combs say craft chocolate might be 20 years behind craft coffee in it development and similarly some folks say coffee is 20 years behind wine. Combs cites winemaking techniques like carbonic maceration that are now done with coffee cherries, which can result in unique and interesting flavors. There’s also the potential for co-fermentations, he says, like raw coffee or cacao beans with fruits or certain yeasts.
• Our tasting: The full experience will be featured on Tap&Table soon — so I’m going to make you wait for the sexy details there. But this was an experimental session — not pre-scripted or -tested — to taste through a trio of Third Wave chocolates with Combs treating each two different ways for contrast and comparison. He didn’t pull shots to incorporate espresso at this tasting, instead focusing on hot chocolate adjuncts, such as fruit extracts, chile oil, cheese and smoke infusions. Bogdanoff contributed homemade salt-cured egg yolks for perhaps the wildest experiment.
• Where to start: Hit Provision and pick up a chocolate bar of Bogdanoff’s personal favorite country of origin: Peru. (Or order online.) While in line for your morning pastry, order a hot chocolate or mocha from Cinchona, noting the utilized specialty chocolate of the week on its menu. (Drinks are $8.50, bars are $10 and up depending on varietal. Now you know why. They’re incredibly rich, and a little goes a long way.)
Weekly, as many as 2,500 additional people who aren’t direct subscribers read this newsletter. That’s wonderful, and I’m truly grateful. But I’m curious, if you’re one of those folks reading it now, what’s stopping you from subscribing FREE to get this direct to your inbox?
Edelweiss Goulash with Ranch Foods Direct
Edelweiss contributes our collaboration recipe with Ranch Foods Direct this month. It’s their popular Goulash, served as a special on Mondays at the restaurant. The recipe calls for your choice of Callicrate beef. They use shoulder, chuck or diced stew meat, and a little pork added can gift extra richness. “Goulash is a great dish for making the more affordable beef cuts stand out,” says Owner Dieter Schnakenberg.
Here’s Johnny
I mentioned last week in Side Dish that the historic Navajo Hogan at 2817 N. Nevada Ave. has been sold by longtime restaurateur Johnny Nolan. He’d owned it since 2011, operating until the COVID pandemic restaurant closure (for dine-in) in March, 2020. I caught up with him just after Side Dish published last week, learning that he had been planning to reopen in early 2021 before two successive fire incidents damaged the building. He says he’d even had the floors redone.
But it turns out that’s not entirely why opted to put the building up for sale later instead. By way of something like an exit interview, I asked him to refresh my memory on his earlier time in the industry, how that compares to the challenges of recent years, and what’s next.
• Entry point: Nolan starting working in restaurants at Bennigan’s in 1990. (That chain’s Colorado locations closed in 2008 when the whole brand nearly imploded, by way of some other history.) He moved to the Ritz a couple years later and was Bar Manager there for a decade. He left to open his own spot, Southside Johnny’s (where Atomic Cowboy now is) in 2002, operating it until its closing in 2017. As noted above, Navajo Hogan’s purchase happened in 2011 and it closed in early 2020.
• What he’s been up to since: “I was burned out after COVID and didn’t have the energy or desire to reopen a restaurant. I picked up some rental properties over the last few years — some long-term, some Airbnb. I don’t see myself going back into the industry. If I did, it would maybe be some part-time bartending to stave off boredom.”
• Then and now: “The restaurant landscape changed. I could see the writing on the wall. Though there are some places that are still doing great — Greg [Howard at Patty Jewett], Franco [Pisani at Paravicini’s], Randy [Price at Urban Egg] — but you’ve gotta be smart these days to make it work. My owner friends are working harder and the margins are thinner, but it’s not impossible. If you’re a good operator, you can still make it in the business… I think we’ll see more fallout, and more fast-casual places with fewer employees; it’s why the landscape now is filled with so many of them. For me it started with the tipped minimum wage increase. [See this recent Side Dish Q&A with the Colorado Restaurant Association for more understanding on that]. It turned mom and pop restaurants upside down. To go from around $3 to $10 an hour, it changed the labor model. I was against it as an operator, and would have been as a bartender. Who cares about more hourly when you’re making $100,000? Back then, owners could afford to sell a $10 hamburger.”
• What’s next: Nolan says the Navajo Hogan’s structure is overall intact and in good shape since the fires, which mostly caused extensive smoke damage inside. Some updating needs to be done to HVAC, electrical and plumbing, so he suspects it will be “a little while” until the new owners are up and running. That said, the exciting news for historical preservationists and Hogan enthusiasts alike is that the new owners are local and intend to reopen a similar bar/restaurant concept, says Nolan, to the best of his knowledge at this point based on their talks. He still has the necessary equipment for them to carry on the broasted chicken tradition and pizza service as well, in addition to popular American bar food like burgers and such, should they so choose. He hints they might even have a legit chef lined up for the spot. I would of course prefer to be quoting the new owners themselves here, but Nolan relayed to me that they’d like more time before speaking to Side Dish. (Nothing is yet on public record at the Colorado Secretary of State’s office by way of a revived filing under the Navajo Hogan name that I can see.) So, once again, stay tuned.
Reminder: Happy Hour Sip With Schnip at T-Byrd’s Tacos & Tequila
11 a.m. to 9 p.m., Sunday, Feb. 23 — come anytime you please.
*Happy hour all day, with $5 chips & queso, $3.95 tacos, $4 nachos, $4 Altos tequila shots, $3-$4 beers, $6 margaritas. *Free Side Dish Schnip "Sip" in District Elleven for subscribers.
*One-day-only Side Dish "Tepache Latte" at bird tree cafe. (Other nonalcoholic beverage options available.) *Free Sunday parking in the adjacent city garage.
Bites & Bits
• In August, 2024, I wrote a piece here called “Downtown's dilemma,” related to restaurateurs sounding off at public input meeting for our City’s homeless response plan at the time. I got lots of feedback on the article, as emotions ran high at the time, and it won’t be the end of the discussion. Late last week, The Denver Gazette ran a story titled “In letter to Mayor Mike Johnston, Denver restaurants say they're now watching downtown 'fall completely apart.’” Dave Query, owner of Big Red F Restaurant Group, which includes incoming Side Dish Dozen member Jax Fish House & Oyster Bar, penned the correspondence, co-signed by the likes of Illegal Pete’s owner Pete Turner. “Between the out of control minimum wage increases, over the top property tax hikes and the complete loss and seeming care for our valuable and unique business districts — we are struggling for our lives to keep these local restaurants alive,” the article quotes him as saying in the letter. He also addresses ongoing issues with drug use, telling the Gazette “It’s not a homeless problem… It's an addiction problem.” The article further notes hundreds of millions of dollars to be invested in Denver’s core and gleans feedback from elected representatives, a mayor’s office spokesperson and The Downtown Denver Partnership. I recommend the read.
• Tacos el Amigo (2416 E. Boulder St.), which also operates Tacos el Amigo #2 (3005 N. Hancock Ave.), has just added a third location, this one in Fountain at 8005 Fountain Mesa Road. At first, I thought the newbie’s name was “Tacos the buddy #3” — but then I realized that was a poor Facebook translation of “Tacos el Amigo.” (Between you, me y la plancha, I’m probably gonna refer to all locations as “Tacos the buddy” from now on because it brings me joy to say.)
• Frankie’s Bar & Grill posted on Feb. 14 to say they would not be reopening for business, thanking the community for 40 years of support. A back scroll through their Facebook tells the quick story. In late April 2024 they were forced to close due to rain water coming through the ceiling. Mid May, they posted a GoFundMe that only raised $3,500 of a $200,000 goal. They also tried to quash rumors as to their reason for closure. An October update mentioned legal negotiations with the landlord, noting the current owners had only been operating it for less than two years: “We love Frankie’s and that’s why we purchased it,” they wrote. On Feb. 3, 2025, the bar posted a photo of a cocktail, saying “We are not open. We will post when we are we promise.” Eleven days later came the post about not reopening after all. (Quick history: There was also a Frankie’s Too at 7376 McLaughlin Road in Falcon; that was bought by Atmosphere Gastropub/Back East Bar & Grill owners Mike and Megan Davis in 2022 and turned into Red’s American Grill. An offshoot of that named Red’s Sunset Grill opened in late 2024 in the former Beasts and Brews spot at 7 Spectrum Loop.)
• The Ute Restaurant at City Rock climbing gym just released a new food menu to complement its constantly rotating craft beer selections — one of the most robust and sophisticated tap and can selections in town it’s worth noting. I sat down for a couple of samples with General Manager Heather Robinson, who tells me the menu focus is to be “quick, less expensive, family-friendly and healthy.” She says the design behind it is a team-wide effort, and that combined experience in the restaurant industry between Ute staffers totals well over a half-century. So they have chops. The mixed greens blueberry fennel salad offers a great example of this. It’s topped with shaved Manchego, fennel slivers, candied pistachios, diced apples, and blueberries and dressed in a honey lemon vinaigrette. Between the necessary element of crunch texture, richness and sweet accents, it’s just a damn good salad — salads rarely being memorable when dining out. Add protein if want (for $2.50 to $4 more above the $12 starting price). Sweet-chile chilled shrimp ($16) is already the spotlight of the spicy shrimp bowl, with basmati rice, edamame, cucumber wedges, grated carrots and jalapeño coins with a sriracha mayo drizzle. It’s a snappy fresh bite, perfect for something light but substantive pre- or post-climb. But you don’t need to be a climber or City Rock member to enjoy The Ute; it’s open to everyone (chalk on your clothing or not), which is something folks seemed confused about in the past. Well — no more.
• The Parlor will host a Grand Opening Reveal open house from 4-7 p.m. on March 14 at 1635 W. Colorado Ave. I asked co-owner Michael Hightower to refresh my memory of how it came to be, and the significance of this moment. Excerpted and lightly edited from our exchange: “The news is the new location and also the ability to gather and really show all the things we do,” she says. “We've been in business since 2019 as The Parlor, but have been in the hospitality industry for 25-plus years each… I owned and operated Soiree on S. Tejon St. where I created the Curious Palate wine series 13 years ago; I ran Deco at the FAC before CC took over; and I have worked with many of the arts organizations. My co-owner Casey Helm was at the Broadmoor for 7 years and is also a Sommelier (we both are)… we launched our first mobile bar, a tiny house bar named Ruby, in 2019. We offer event-bartending services, a second mobile bar (a street cart named Claude), make our own mixers, advocate for fresh spirited and spirit-free options, offer wine and spirit and mixology classes, and TIPS training courses.”
• Springs Magazine announced a new, monthly column series by Meagan Thomas of local PR and marketing company Springs Native. For its kickoff this week, she did a Q&A with Jonah Attebery, a local medical professional who became quite passionate about food as a counterbalance to his stressful life in the ICU. He attended culinary school, staged at Red Gravy — where he’s now business partner of Chef/Owner Eric Brenner — and went on to teach classes at Gather Food Studio & Spice Shop. He’s an interesting and multi-talented dude, no doubt, worth getting to know a little bit via this deserved profile. Give it a read.
• You may recall my Side Dish Dozen 2024 member profile on The French Kitchen last June, “It all started with crêpes,” detailing owner Blandine Mazéran’s full-circle business journey that revolves around the favorite French treat. The big news at that time was TFK’s new offering of retail grab-and-go crêpe wrappers for making your own crêpes at home. But now, just this past week, TFK has announced Crêpe Thursdays, with in-store made-to-order crêpes from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. The short menu features four savory options (all gluten-free) and three sweet (gluten-free by request). No preorders; first-come-first-serve as long as the batter holds out each week. (Visit TFK’s site to book crêpe cooking classes or schedule a private crêpe party at TFK.)
• Congrats to Distillery 291, who was just earned top honors at the 2025 World Whiskey Awards by being named America’s Best Rye Whiskey No Age Statement.
• Multiple people have told me (and a sliver of the internet, including Google, confirms) that Taste of Ethiopia has permanently closed. I had given the spot a strong rating in April, 2024, and I’d been part of a judging team who awarded the outfit at last year’s Taste of Pikes Peak as well. I reached out for comment, but was unable to make contact.
• Caspian Cafe has been “temporarily closed” since early November, 2024, and no update has been made on their Facebook page or website since. A phone recording at the restaurant notes they have been closed “due to health issues” and extends gratitude for understanding.
Side Dish Dozen happenings
T-Byrd’s Tacos & Tequila: National Margarita Day, Feb. 22. $3.50 tacos all day, $5 Tommy-style margs, $8 Altos margs, live dj.
Bristol Brewing Company: Don’t miss your chance to try Raspberry Winter Warlock for Stout Month – releasing this Saturday Feb. 22 at the Bristol Pub. Extremely limited quantities. Also, Firkin Fest is officially sold out for this year.
Hammond’s Pastrami & Smoked Delicatessen: Pastrami is our signature item, but also check out our other slow-smoked deli meats, in a sandwich or sliced to-go: prime rib, roast beef, turkey and more.
Red Gravy: Next month’s Sunday Supper Club on March 9 will celebrate one of America’s only original cuisines: Cajun/Creole. This special Mardi Gras menu will feature items like BBQ shrimp & grits, chicken & andouille gumbo and beignets.
Ascent Beverage: Proudly distributing regionally made brands Apple Valley Cider, 1874 Distilling, Jackson Hole Stillworks and Backwards Distilling. Find our products at your favorite bar or fine liquor store.
Goat Patch Brewing: CC Hockey Night in the Taproom, Feb. 21, 6:30 p.m.; Feb. 22, 5 p.m. Trivia, 6:30-8:30 p.m., Feb. 26. Therapeutic Thursdays Adult Coloring Night, 6-8 p.m., Feb. 27.
Wobbly Olive: Happy hours, 4-6 p.m. weekdays, half-off cocktails from our full menu. Stop in for Chef Mark Henry’s mindful vegan, vegetarian and gluten-free options. Or get our classic Prohibition Burger.
Kangaroo Coffee: Hillside Coffee House Hoppenings: Come support Raw Tools Pop-Up Market this Friday Feb. 21 from 3-7p.m. Story Lounge Open Mic second Tuesdays, and Pike Peak Art Council second and fourth Mondays!
Four by Brother Luck: Join us for Wine Wednesdays and get half-off bottles up to $75. Congrats to Chef Maria Composto for winning our Knife Fight #2 at Eleven18!
Rasta Pasta: The Springs’ only Italian-Jamaican fusion eatery. Stop in for our popular, fruit-infused Tortellini Jamaica Mon or Dreadlock Ravioli with jerk chicken. Mix Tape Music Bingo, Mondays 7-9 p.m. Listen to music, play bingo, have fun, win prizes!
Odyssey Gastropub: New menus are out. Enjoy miso mussels and Korean pork belly bites or our flounder banh mi.
Edelweiss: Catch happy hours in our Ratskeller, 4:30-6:30 p.m. daily.
Upcoming events
Feb. 22: Chili Cook-Off at WestFax Springs Brewery. 1-4 p.m. $10 to enter, or get a ticket to spectate; options for tasting, voting and beers included. (I’m co-judging.)
Feb. 23: All-Day Happy Hour Sip With Schnip at T-Byrd’s Tacos & Tequila. 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. $5 chips & queso, $3.95 tacos, $4 nachos, $4 Altos tequila shots, $3-$4 beers, $6 margaritas. Free Side Dish "Sip" in District Elleven for subscribers. One-day-only Side Dish "Tepache Latte" at bird tree cafe. Free city garage Sunday parking nearby.
Feb. 26-March 1: Wine Festival of Colorado Springs featuring the wines of California’s central coast. Multiple events and venues.
March 1: The Mumbo Jumbo Gumbo Cook-Off in Manitou Springs. (Can anyone unseat last year’s judges’ and people’s choice winner, Creole Roots Food Truck?)
March 5: Colorado Pint Day. Collect the annual commemorative glassware at participating breweries. $1 from each pint benefits the Colorado Brewers Guild.
March 16: ACF Culinary Passport 2025 at the Broadmoor’s Cheyenne Lodge. Proceeds benefiting the Springs Rescue Mission and its Culinary Training Program.
Parting shot
I guess you can caption this one “busted in my house slippers.”
I handled all the right wardrobe for business up top, but betrayed the full fashion potential of work-from-home Zoom calling by a total style failure at the ground level. But hey, I was comfortable and my feet were happy and warm, off camera, mind you.
Sidedishsidekick, doing her own laptop computer work outside of my Zoom frame, captured me being interviewed by UCCS Economic Forum Program Director Bill Craighead earlier this week. That was for their Weekly Economic Snapshot, discussing current restaurant industry challenges. The segment should publish next week, so I’ll share links (of what the laptop saw from the front).