Keeping the dream alive
Mark Anthony lives! Bella's Bagels breaks through, Ropa Vieja with Gather, a bucket of new year news + more food & drink happenings
“I’ve sold Mark Anthony’s Pretzels — it’s not closing down.”
That’s how Mark Anthony starts our phone convo earlier this week when I respond to his message to call him. I confess, I’m a bit stunned — since I just reported on its planned closure here a few weeks ago — but I’m also immediately excited. The pretzels will live on! … but how?
Turns out one of Anthony’s wholesale clients, Adam Fox from Single Barrel Bar and Grill, stepped up to save the day and preserve the brand. “He called me and said ‘we have to keep it open,’” says Anthony. “I said I’m going to Texas to raise horses with my daughter and open a pizzeria. I can’t keep it open. But — do you want to buy it?”
Fox picks up the story for me on a subsequent phone call to him, explaining, “I’ve been working with Mark for five years. They’re very good pretzels, my customers love them. I didn’t want to have to go buy another pretzel from Sysco. Mark’s heart and soul are in his recipes. I thought, if I can keep some people employed and keep another business from going under, that was my goal.” Fox, a former roofer who tells me he grew up poor and on welfare, operated (and sold) Colorado Sports Fanatic Bar & Grill prior, and bought Single Barrel from Heath and Chuck Schafer three years ago; it’s now 15 years old as a business.
Fox tells me he typically sells around 200 pretzels a week at Single Barrel; they’re an app which he serves with a white cheese dipping sauce he currently buys from a distributor. But the new plan is to “amp up” the Mark Anthony’s Pretzels offerings, which will include making and selling some house cheese dips and other pretzel variants (a pepperoni-infused one for example). And he won’t be stepping on Anthony’s toes in doing so as the new owner — in fact he has Anthony’s blessing to execute ideas Anthony himself came up with but didn’t have the resources to achieve. Anthony will stay on for the next couple of months to train Fox and his 10-member culinary team and faithfully transcribe recipes so that the product remains true to what Front Range clientele have fallen in love with. (Remember during the pandemic when Anthony personally drove around delivering pretzels to homes as his pivot to survive? He was delivering 1000 dozen a week at one point, he reminds me.)
With the sale, Fox will immediately inherit dozens of wholesale clients, so customers in restaurants and bars ranging from Denver to Pueblo and all over the Springs won’t have to eat a less-than, commercially made pretzel. His expansion plan also calls for extended hours (soon 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. weekdays) and Fox intends (with minor renovations about to ensue) to add a small seating area so more of a retail, walk-in focus can take root at the bakery at 2851 Dublin Blvd. He’s thinking about serving some coffee too. “There’s so much opportunity with this business — my mind is racing with ideas,” he says. “But it’s all Mark’s ideas and dream. It’s why I’m keeping the name. He’s got a good legacy brand that’s already built.”
Returning to my convo with Anthony, he says he’s glad Fox will be able to grow the business in a way he wasn’t able to, adding elements his customers have requested for years. He’s also happy to know that his son’s best friend will remain employed there and help run operations. On the whole, he says, Fox’s purchase of the business “means the world to me. I’ve felt so guilty because everything everyone in the Springs has done for me. I almost felt like a traitor. I have clients come in and buy one pretzel and talk to me for two hours. I love my clients so much.”
Ropa Vieja with Ranch Foods Direct and Gather
Welcome to the new year and our January collaboration recipe with Ranch Foods Direct. I’m thrilled to welcome back my OG recipe partner Gather Food Studio to share their their fantastic pressure cooker Ropa Vieja recipe. I’ve made this several times at home since Chef David Cook first shared it with me. It’s best known today in Cuban cuisine, but originated in Spain. I’ll share more about it in the coming weeks, but for now, all you need to know is to hit either of Ranch Foods Direct’s retail markets for some Callicrate beef to prepare this incredibly flavorful dish.
“Tear down this wall”
If you don’t recognize the completely unrelated quote I just used for a headline … well, Google that shit, as they say. (At least I amuse myself.)
Anyway, last week, Bella’s Bagels broke down the wall between its existing space and next-door expansion. Recall that in September, 2024, I told you they were doubling their overall capacity to keep up with demand. I stopped by to check in with co-owner Jason Stele — great excuse for an outstanding bagel sandwich if I’m honest — and he gave me a tour of the construction site, mapping out where the new features would be.
Soon, there’ll be 10 tables (joining some on the patio) plus two bar counters so guests can finally enjoy bagels indoors, on-site. The upgraded Bella’s will also feature a coffee bar, continuing to serve Loyal Coffee products. “You have to have a good coffee to marry with what I believe to be the best bagel sandwich in the state,” he says. The renovation includes a kitchen area walled off for now, until a phase two of the project, where “Bella’s will be a full New York-style deli.” Stele says their eventual goal is to “bring everyone back to their childhood, what you remember from grandma.”
Fun fact I learned: Bella’s recently added a “bagel meter” widget to their website, so patrons can check ahead to see if there’s still bagels remaining on a given day. They’ve been selling out upwards of 700-800 daily.
Bites & Bits
• Some brief updates to my recent roundup of 2024's most interesting and outstanding new restaurant and bar openings across the city:
1) Pop Kitchen & Events recently closed its OCC cafe, with owner Amy Kunstle telling me her labor cost “combined with the general difficulty onboarding shared kitchen customers in the environment of a tough economic year created a hardship in establishing my concept.” Kunstle says she’s “still trying to regroup with options that may include staying on mission to help a new restaurant get started or keep working forward myself to do the best I can.”
2) After publishing said 2024 new-opening roundup, I combed through my writings more — with that uncertain, check-everything-three-times-sense-of-journalist-paranoia that haunts me after hitting print — and gave a belated shout-out to Cocktails After Dusk, who I felt should have made the original list for their contribution to downtown’s late-night scene. After more partially sleepless nights (now I’m just being superlative and dramatic), I threw some more honorable mentions out on social media in the following week, as places popped into mind. Happy Eats Pasta deserves a round of hearty applause too as a solid spot on the South side (with the nicest owners ever). And PizzAria should also be on your list of new places to dine, as owner Joel Kromer and crew are killin’ it (on Sunday and Monday evenings only) at Nightingale Bread as a phenomenal pizza pop-up.
• The folks behind Westside Cantina — which closed at November’s end — are already back up and running. Their new spot, Agave Lounge, resides in the former Cucuru Gallery Lounge at 2332 W. Colorado Ave. Earlier promotion noted a “smaller yet elevated” menu with gluten-free, vegan and vegetarian options.
• Cinchona Coffee had to shutter its pop-up shop at 130 E. Pikes Peak Ave. early in December. Owner Andrew Shepherd Combs tells Side Dish that state requirements don’t allow him to continue using a mobile license in fixed space for a long duration. So he’s closed for now as he works on next steps, possibly to include reopening in the space after a proper buildout, or potentially setting up in another place. Meanwhile, he says fans can support Cinchona by visiting his online shop to buy coffee gear, premium roasted beans and fine teas. He also offers a monthly coffee subscription for which he curates “various nerdy coffees” and offers brewing tips and recipes.
• Stompin’ Groundz coffee shop — which I profiled here ahead of its opening this past July and picked among my 2024 most outstanding new openings — was vandalized on Dec. 20, putting it momentarily out of business until cleanup and repairs could be made. Within days, a GoFundMe effort exceeded its $5,500 goal. “Yes, someone broke in, took the money, broke some thangs, made a mess… But what they didn’t take and could never take is the sense of community that this space has activated,” wrote owner Juelz Ramirez on Facebook.
• La Concha Bakery & Coffee opens Jan. 3 at 124 E. Cheyenne Mountain Blvd. (in the space that has hosted businesses like Red Rabbit Cafe and Ski Barista). I’ve connected with the owners but wasn’t able to interview on time for this newsletter (so more coming soon is the plan). Their website says their “bakery blends traditional Mexican breads with modern dietary needs, offering a diverse menu that includes sourdough, gluten-friendly, and keto-friendly options.”
• Monse’s Taste of El Salvador launched a new menu recently that includes items like pineapple pastor tacos, chicken guisado tacos and chorizo green chile tacos — all of which can be made vegan by request. There’s also a new pineapple pastor pupusa that looks delightful in a photo at the very least.
• Side Dish Dozen sponsor Red Gravy made Springs Magazine’s recent list for 10 of the Most Popular Restaurants in Colorado Springs. Editor/Columnist Jeremy Jones based it off of metrics on OpenTable, caveating that it’s not fully comprehensive given not all local restaurants use the app or require reservations, and not all diners book ahead. Still, it’s a snapshot that says … well, something about deserved popularity.
• Side Dish Dozen sponsor Brother Luck was recently featured in a CS Indy article, where he reiterated something he recently told me in person: “We appreciate the love on Friday, Saturday. We need you on Sunday, Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday. Those are the days that kill a restaurant,” he said in relation to all the recent restaurant closures and social media “frenzy” around them.
• Fox21 reported on a new culinary center in Briargate planned for 2025, which sounds like somewhat of a re-creation of the original Till venture in the same space, operated by Altitude Hospitality Group. The story notes, “Roost Coffee, Dad’s Donuts, The Mercantile, Campfire Pizza, Till, Garden of the Gods Gourmet, and Garden of the Gods Catering are slated to be in the center.” When the original Till opened in 2016, there was also a small retail market, coffee component (serving Switchback), pizza arm and fine dining element. Whatever didn’t work out then, owner Mitch Yellen sounds confident it will work out now, as he’s also reviving plans for outdoor pickleball courts, once slated for North Side Social, the short-lived gaming venture that replaced Till (shortly before the COVID pandemic took it out).
• Denver Post journalist Jonathan Shikes curated Denver’s biggest food and restaurant trends from 2024 last week. Two of the items that made his list: bagels and dumplings. I noticed a little overlap with some of Westword writer Molly Martin’s list she’d given us back in November, in terms of cool spots worth a visit now.
• 2024 marked the first year since 2005 that more breweries closed than opened nationwide, reported the New York Times. From the article: “This string of closures is symptomatic of an overall decline in beer drinking as the industry has steadily lost market share to spirits, flavored malt beverages, hard seltzers and other alcoholic drinks… The only bright side might be that the stream of closures is flooding the market with used brewing equipment sold at bargain prices.”
• I can’t help but share a second industry-related New York Times article this week (that a reader also recommended), one focused on a dearth of good healthcare coverage for restaurant workers. “Running a restaurant in 2024 meant taking no salary while working a full-time hospitality job elsewhere in order to afford private health insurance,” wrote author Yannick Benjamin, who just closed his awarded restaurant Contento due to “insurmountable” challenges. The article notes how only 40 percent of full-time hospitality workers have access to healthcare compared to 87 percent in full-time private sector jobs. “The best restaurant workers give their all to each night of service. They bend over backward to make sure guests have birthdays, anniversaries and evenings that are truly special,” he concludes. “Our hope for ourselves is less grandiose. We just want the dignity of ordinary days.”
• I appeared again last week on the Mike Boyle Restaurant Show, this time for an extended end-of-year chat with Mike about all things food and drink in the Springs. Find links to each segment on his podcast page, where you can listen when it’s convenient for you.
Side Dish Dozen happenings
Stellina Pizza Cafe: Book now for our Jan. 27 Supper Club. Five courses + apertif, $75; wine pairing $25 more. Weekday happy hours, 3-5 p.m., feature BOGO starters and $2 off boozy beverages.
Bristol Brewing Company: Happy New Year! Whether your January is dry, wet or somewhere in between, you’re always welcome to spend a cozy winter’s evening with us over a warm plate of BBQ and a house made root beer, sweet tea, soda or beer.
Odyssey Gastropub: We have you covered for Dry January. We have six mocktails and three Athletic Brewing nonalcoholic beers available.
Goat Patch Brewing: CC Hockey in the taproom, 7 p.m. Jan. 3, 4 p.m. Jan. 4. Bleating Heart Night, 5-9 p.m., Jan. 7, benefitting Special Olympics Colorado - Caribou Alpine Ski Team. Trivia, 6:30 p.m. Jan. 8.
bird tree cafe: Kolaches are back! We have savory and sweet flavors. New happy hours from 3-6 p.m. daily, with big discounts. Have you tried our sensational Terry’s Chocolate-inspired latte? It’s made with house-made orange oleo saccharum.
Four by Brother Luck: We’re reopening Jan. 7 from a short holiday break, during which chef Ashley Brown put the finishing touches on our new winter menu. Top Chef Dinner with Kaleena Bliss, Jan. 23.
Edelweiss: We’ve already sold upwards of 2,500 Stollen this season! We’re still offering them through mid January.
Red Gravy: Book now for the Jan. 12 Sunday Supper Club. Chef Eric’s featuring his favorite travel spot: New Mexico. Four drink-paired courses include lobster chile relleno and duck carnitas; $125.
Wobbly Olive: Our new winter menu is live! Half-off cocktails from full menu 4-6 p.m., weekdays at both locations. Next up at Allusion Speakeasy: Hogwarts School Of Witchcraft & Wizardry. Reserve early.
Rasta Pasta: Mondays kids eat free with an adult entrée purchase. Two for Tuesdays: BOGO craft beer drafts. Wine Wednesdays: two-for-one house wines.
Jackson Hole Still Works: Find our Double Cask Absaroka Gin on fine bar shelves around town and in liquor stores.Proudly distributed locally by Ascent Beverage.
Kangaroo Coffee: You can now order online for pickup at Hillside Coffee House or Phil Long Ford Cafe. The Story Lounge pops up Sundays, 10 a.m. to noon at Hillside.
The Carter Payne: Pasta and Beer: A community dinner, Jan. 11. Cold Weather Comfort: A Coursed Dinner, Jan. 17.
Upcoming events
Jan. 6: Women’s Empowerment Social 1.0 at Cocktails After Dusk. 6-8 p.m.
Jan. 6-11: Elvis’ birthday celebration week at Colonel Mustard’s Sandwich Emporium. (Get the King’s favorite sandwich, toasted peanut butter and banana on multigrain with a bacon-optional up-charge.)
Jan. 23: Sip With Schnip dine-around at Ivywild School with the Blue Star Group brands. Full details coming soon, but save the date.
Jan. 24: Food + Function: Farm to Fork at Taste at the Fine Arts Center. Four courses featuring local producers, served on Bemis School of Art pottery that you keep.
Parting shot(s)
“Lift up a POS system and find me there. Flip over a smartphone and I’ll be with you.”
Sounds biblical in a modern way, yeah? I’ll call it Schnipture.
The point is I’m taking over the world one well-placed sticker at a time. And I have industry buy-in on my plan. So when you’re out and about “seek mine face and allow me to show you the way, for I hath ventured here before you, in search of sustenance.”
I think I’m starting to dig the Schnipture tone… hmmm, that gives me an idea:
So descriptive of the establishments that are written about.